Tony Peters “T-Bone”

“Surfing and paddle boarding it’s a life style. It’s not a hobby. You live it, you breathe it, you think about it. When you look through books or magazines, or anything, all you are thinking about, it’s the next wave, perfect wave. It’s so magical. You only know the feeling if you are the surfer. It’s very difficult thing to explain. When you out in the ocean, you are riding the waves and you got basically paddle for it, your heart is pumping, adrenaline is going, and you thinking am I going to make this? And when you take that drop it’s just wonderful, just to get it perfect…  And then, you just put your hand into the face of the wave and you are cruising along and it peels over you. You just stand up and you are going – yahoooo… I’m real. It’s just a wonderful feeling, wonderful…” – Tony Peters

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